I can only assume that a year away from Australia (with a particularly enjoyable focus on Bordeaux left bank!) has opened my palate to the delights of Cabernet Sauvignon. Previously, when tasting the more affordable Wynns wines, I wouldn't have hesitated to reach for the Shiraz, rather than the Cabernet or the more commonly found Cabernet Shiraz Merlot (with that famous red diagonal). Perhaps it's just the vintage, but on the Wynnsday release a couple of months ago of the 2007 range at my local, the Shiraz was about $15, and the Cabernet was $34. While there are occasional bargains, and people do have different tastes, there's usually some truth in "you get what you pay for". (Paul Keating said once that it was better to be an economic rationalist than an economic irrationalist!) I was tempted by a discount, and coming from Coonawarra one can expect greatness from the Cabernet Sauvignon.
I admit I wasn't ready for it. This wine was terrific, and I will be heading back to look for more. From the first sniff of the freshly opened bottle I was confident that I'd chosen well. No need for any breathing - the powerful fruity aroma with chocolatey oak depth was instantly attractive. The mouth feel was very smooth. Not too full bodied, just gentle and delicious, very fruit-driven. The pretentious writer might argue that a better wine (or perhaps one with more bottle age) would last longer on the back palate, and would have a fuller, more complex mouth feel. But I was too busy just enjoying the taste to think such things. It was certainly a good advertisement for Australian wine for our English guest - about to head off to New Zealand before going home.
Unfortunately, as I sit and try to remember enough to do justice to the wine, all I have to jog my memory is the still-mouthwatering scent from the empty bottle. Last night's storm made us contemplate the scented candle raffle prize that might be necessary in the event of a blackout. I have a slight reputation for finding such scents too strong. Now if we could only scent a candle with what's left in the wine bottle! What occasion can I save the next bottles for?
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Willows 05 Cabernet Sauvignon and some older wines
Recently (about 6 weeks ago, so watch out for faulty memories) I opened some of the more affordable wines that I have been keeping for a while. In particular, a 2001 BVE Moculta Shiraz, a 2001 Peter Lehmann Shiraz, and a 2002 Church Block (I think). For much of the time I owned them, these wines lived in our laundry, which I like to think was about the most temperature-stable room in the house. And then for nearly 18 months they lived in guaranteed 15.4 degree humidity controlled commercial storage.
I would have to admit that these aren't wines that you buy to keep in the cellar. But having tasted some particularly scrumptious aged Barossa shiraz in the past, I have been quite happy to leave all sorts of wines sitting in their racks, hoping - or perhaps expecting - that they would all be getting better. You can tell there's a sad ending coming, can't you. And you're right, at least in part. The Moculta was well and truly gone. I don't want to say too many bad things about it, because I think it's a great value wine: I'll buy it again for sure. But I'll drink it sooner rather than later. More happily, though, I want to note that the PL Shiraz and Church Block (yes I know it's McLaren Vale, not Barossa) were still quite good. I can't say categorically that they were better than in their infancy: they were probably a bit thinner with less fruit, but smoother and more integrated. I won't leave wines like these that long again, I don't think, but two out of three isn't too bad, I suppose.
Now it just so happens that I'm on a work trip to Canberra, and I fortuitously ended up at a table for one in one of my favourite steak restaurants, the Charcoal Grill. Let me just mention that if you normally ask for your steak "medium rare", you should consider ordering a "medium" at this boutique establishment. Anyway, to the wines: they do have a few wines by the glass, but none particularly captured my imagination. I can't remember (I know what you're thinking) ever having ordered a bottle when dining alone before, but at a place like this, it's worth doing things properly. I normally choose shiraz with beef, but it was clear that this was a cabernet sauvignon house. I selected a Willows 2005, and even with the restaurant markup, am quite satisfied with the value. I have two or three bottles of 2005 Willows at home, including a Bonesetter and a shiraz magnum, that I bought at the cellar door with Jim once. I probably tasted the cabernet, but didn't buy it. Well I'm pleased to report that it was a good choice. The first sniff had me a little worried, with a hint of acetone, but that seemed to disappear by the taste test. And it opened up well during the wait for, and course of, my meal. The eucalyptus flavours promised on the label weren't as evident as the mint, and we could argue about whether there was too much acid imbalance, but the palate had quite a good length with a delicious oaky finish with some complex textures. I've saved most of the bottle for future consumption, so I might be able to offer more comments later.
I would have to admit that these aren't wines that you buy to keep in the cellar. But having tasted some particularly scrumptious aged Barossa shiraz in the past, I have been quite happy to leave all sorts of wines sitting in their racks, hoping - or perhaps expecting - that they would all be getting better. You can tell there's a sad ending coming, can't you. And you're right, at least in part. The Moculta was well and truly gone. I don't want to say too many bad things about it, because I think it's a great value wine: I'll buy it again for sure. But I'll drink it sooner rather than later. More happily, though, I want to note that the PL Shiraz and Church Block (yes I know it's McLaren Vale, not Barossa) were still quite good. I can't say categorically that they were better than in their infancy: they were probably a bit thinner with less fruit, but smoother and more integrated. I won't leave wines like these that long again, I don't think, but two out of three isn't too bad, I suppose.
Now it just so happens that I'm on a work trip to Canberra, and I fortuitously ended up at a table for one in one of my favourite steak restaurants, the Charcoal Grill. Let me just mention that if you normally ask for your steak "medium rare", you should consider ordering a "medium" at this boutique establishment. Anyway, to the wines: they do have a few wines by the glass, but none particularly captured my imagination. I can't remember (I know what you're thinking) ever having ordered a bottle when dining alone before, but at a place like this, it's worth doing things properly. I normally choose shiraz with beef, but it was clear that this was a cabernet sauvignon house. I selected a Willows 2005, and even with the restaurant markup, am quite satisfied with the value. I have two or three bottles of 2005 Willows at home, including a Bonesetter and a shiraz magnum, that I bought at the cellar door with Jim once. I probably tasted the cabernet, but didn't buy it. Well I'm pleased to report that it was a good choice. The first sniff had me a little worried, with a hint of acetone, but that seemed to disappear by the taste test. And it opened up well during the wait for, and course of, my meal. The eucalyptus flavours promised on the label weren't as evident as the mint, and we could argue about whether there was too much acid imbalance, but the palate had quite a good length with a delicious oaky finish with some complex textures. I've saved most of the bottle for future consumption, so I might be able to offer more comments later.
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